Saturday, December 6, 2008

Athens, Greece

I was going to title this something kitchy like "My Big Fat Greek Vacation," but I thought better of it and let it be more hideous and banal. That being said, I think I really did learn something on this trip. For instance, it pays off to learn the Greek alphabet system, other than to know which frat party to go to.

It's peculiar to be reading street signs where the letter "H" is pronounced as "i," and what looks like a "p" is actually an "r". It confused me and I had to squint my (already little Asian) eyes even smaller.

We didn't really get off to a great start, as Randy was slightly sick and we took a red-eye that dropped us off at the Athens Airport at 4am. But the bus was running, and we disembarked at an eerily quiet Syntagma Square (when we visited the next day, it was packed with people). The taxi dropped us off at our hotel in Omonia... I thought I took a flight to Athens and landed in Delhi/Kowloon. There were Hindi and Chinese on the shop windows all around us. We weaved through the 6-feet high pile of trash and looked warily into the dark hotel door. Eyes were glistening in the corner - late-shift workers trying to catch a bus home (as the hotel was right in front of a bus stop).

Due to miscommunication, the hotel didn't have a room for us. The hotel check-in doesn't start until noon, so we waited/fell asleep on wooden chairs in the hotel bar. The receptionist didn't know what to do with these odd tourists and kept on telling us that the cleaning lady will come at 7am to give us a room. The cleaning lady came late that day. The elevator broke down. We were exhausted.

But we took a big long nap and got psyched for our first sight of Athens. Indeed, we actually had our first Greek meal, saw the changing of the guards, and climbed up to Lykavittos to see the sunset and the Acropolis light up!

What is traveling to another country without gastronomical indulgence? We tried different Greek cuisines - tzatziki, dolmades, saganaki, greek salad, kebabs, lamb stew, chicken souvlaki, kalamari and as many mousakka as possible! (Yeah, diet begins... right after vacation).

Kebab at Thanasis in Monastiraki (the best in town, according to my friend). I realized in the middle of eating it that I should maybe take a picture of it for evidence. It was yummy! :)
We had these coconut sticks - and boy they were good! Vanilla or chocolate covered. Mmm...

Not to be eaten, but there was an interesting window display at a jewelry store. It made me crave fruit cakes.

And now, for something completely educational...


Yup - been there, done that. Here's the Parthenon & me. We're like chums. I really liked this view of the Ancient Agora. Imagining how the philosophers, politicians, and merchants gathered here (starting around 6 B.C.) is quite intriguing. I was hoping to catch a glimpse of ancient graffiti somewhere that said "Socrates was here" (or something to that effect).


There's a lot of dogs in Athens and most of them are not strays (I guess?), since they have collars on them. But they are just everywhere. This one was taking a snooze inside the Acropolis. Free admissions to the dogs, I guess. Most people leave them alone ("Let sleeping dogs lie," as Robert Walpole says!). The other photo has a stone with an inscription that says "Civic Office." This one's for Drake. Yeah, stop yo' whining, you could have been working here.


Looking down on the city streets of Athens from the Acropolis.


Did I mention there were lots of dogs in Athens? This pooch didn't even flinch when we crossed the bridge. They own Athens, I swear.


The museums in Athens are great. There's either a fascinating myth or an incredibly pragmatic use for the artifacts. Here is a Gorgon (or all that could be gathered of it) and a teracotta doll and pot that were buried with the dead.


Mycenean pottery. The intricate artwork and the use of earthy colors are very distinct - they often tell stories of gods, heroes and wars.

Next to it is a bronze Spartan shield. It's quite an impressive shield, but I can imagine that it was also a very heavy one that may not have been advantageous in close combat.


Here's one of my favorites - it's a pottery potty! Keep your baby on that stool till he's done! (yes, notice how the kid can't get out unless he's lifted out).


(Man) perfume bottle - I wonder if it was for women to have different scents for different men? Or for men to have musks like other men???

And here's another one of my favorite Greek inventions. "The klepsydra was a simple type of hydraulic clock used for timing speeches given in the law courts of ancient Athens. [They] were in use in Athens from the end of 5th to the end of 4th century B.C." Basically, you fill up the top pot with water and let the water drain through the hole at the bottom (similar concept to a sand clock). "An experienced speaker adjusted his speech to coincide with the last drop." These were usually for 6 minute speeches - no fillibusting allowed!


The kleroteria - a jury selection device where all the citizens dropped in their bronze identification tickets into the slots. There is a pipe and slot on the left-hand side of the kleoroteria, and a white or black bronze ball would be cranked out at random. This would determine if a whole row of citizens were to report to jury duty or not. Interesting system.

And don't forget the nightlife

We were looking for a nice restaurant and found this menu. Greek citizens are very much anti-Iraq War. (In light of the recent anti-Condi riots, this graffiti protest is rather "cute" in comparison).


There were lots of places where you could listen to greek music and enjoy your Greek meal. In fact, it was hard not to run into a taverna with musicians. Whether the food was good or not, you were guaranteed a great ambiance. (we had some of those, unfortunately)


Some graffiti on the walls in Monastiraki, right by the Roman Agora and the Temple of the Wind. A juxtaposition of ancient ruins and modern doodles in the same neighborhood.


Syntagma Squre becomes a hub for skaters and couples taking a stroll at night.

We had a short trip to Paros Island. When we came back to Athens, the receptionist at the hotel (a jolly Armenian man named Dimitri) said, "Ah, you're back! I have a surprise for you."

Dimitri, my good man, indeed had a surprise for us. He knew we were coming and gave us the rooftop - there's only one room on the very top floor, and it has a first-class view of the Parthenon. Totally ecstatic, we breathed in the open air.



No words necessary.


Yamas! Ouzo is a must for such an awesome view.

I didn't know what to expect on my way there, but I came back fascinated by the land, the history, and the people. That's what keeps me going and wanting to see more in this world.


Good bye, Greece! You are so beautiful!

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